The Albaicín neighbourhood in Granada, declared a World Heritage Site in 1984, was the beginning of the city as we know it today, and still retains all the magic of its Moorish past.
During the Islamic period, the Albaicín was a group of different independent urban centres and it wasn’t until modern times that it became what we know it as today.
To walk through Albaicín is to walk through the history of Granada. Its buildings, its squares and the very structure of its streets allow visitors to recognise the different cultural and social transformations of the city.
What to visit in Albaicín
The Elvira Gate
The Puerta de Elvira, located at the foot of the hill where nowadays only the arch remains, was the traditional entrance to the city of Granada, and is the perfect starting point to get to know the neighbourhood. At its foot is the Plaza de San Gil, which was one of the busiest squares in Moorish times, as it served as the neuralgic point of communication between the city, the suburbs and the medinas located on the opposite bank of the Darro River.
Calle Elvira
Calle Elvira, which starts at the Arch by the same name, was one of the most important thoroughfares in the city until the opening of the Gran Vía. With a rectilinear layout, it is notable for the church of San Andrés, which has a minaret as a symbol of its past as a former mosque.
At the end of the street you’ll find the Plaza Nueva, which dates from the 16th century, where Christian urbanistic ideals are clearly demonstrated through the architecture. Here you can find the Royal Chancery and the Church of San Gil and Santa Ana.
Carrera del Darro
Continuing along the Plaza de Santa Ana, you’ll reach the Carrera del Darro, one of the prettiest, most picturesque streets in Granada. It’s special location, in the valley of the river, the contrasting lighting caused by the narrowness of the street, and the beauty of the buildings which make it up, such as the Casa de los Condes de Arco, the Convent of Santa Catalina de Zafra, the Casa de Castril or the Arab baths of Bañuelo, all make this street one of the most important ones in the city.
El paseo de los tristes
The Carrera del Darro will take you to the Paseo de los Tristes, one of the most emblematic spots of Albaicín and startpoint of the Cuesta del Chapiz, from which you can travel to Sacromonte. In the Cuesta del Chapiz you must visit the Casa Morisca and the Palacio de los Córdova, based on a 16th Century building which was rebuilt in its current location in the mid 1960s which is home to the current Municipal Archives.
El Sacromonte
The Camino del Sacromonte allows you to discover another of Granada’s most emblematic spots, the caves. Once lived in by the gypsies of the area, they’ve since been converted into flamenco clubs, restaurants, clubs and tourist accommodation, although there are still some which are lived in by people.
Following along the Cuesta del Chapiz, you’ll get to the edge of the Alcazaba Cadima/Vieja, nearby to which you’ll find El Salvador church, built over the Great Mosque of Albaicín and which still conserves the ablutions courtyard, as well as the Convent of las Tomasas.
Aljibes and Miradores
On the right going down from Plaza Aliatar and calle Panaderos, you’ll arrive at Plaza Larga, the main square of Albaicín. From there, you can go on to the San Nicolás viewpoint, which has the best views of the Alhambra, giving you a fantastic image of the monumental complex. You can also walk along the Calle Larga de San Cristóbal towards the viewpoint of the same name, which boasts an excellent panoramic view of the whole city. Next to the viewpoint you’ll find the San Cristóbal church, in which its Arab cistern stands out.
The cisterns, which can be found throughout the Albaicín, are one of the most typical things of the district. Eminently functional, they’re mainly associated with ancient mosques, due to the practice of ablution. Amongst the most outstanding in the area are the aforementioned San Cristóbal church and the Aljibe del Trillo, which has an interesting horseshoe arch.
From San Cristóbal, you can access the Cuesta de la Alhacaba, which runs alongside the old Nasrid wall of the Alcazaba, or you can go down to the Carril de la Lona, from which you can revel at the beautiful views of the eastern part of Granada, especially from the viewpoint of the same name.
Very near to the Mirador de la Lona you’ll find Plaza de San Miguel Bajo, a lovely spot to relax and enjoy typical Granadian food in its outdoor restaurants. It’s also interesting to walk through the narrow streets leading off the square where you’ll discover the Convent of Santa Isabel la Real or the Palace of Dar-Al-Horra, previous residence of the mother of King Boabdil, which is renowned for its profuse interior decor in contrast with the dullness of its exterior façades.
The Calle de Santa Isabel la Real, which later becomes the Camino Nuevo de San Nicolás, will lead you, after a left turn, to the lively Mirador de San Nicolás, the best place to look over the Alhambra and the best way to end your visit to the Albaicín.